PolyBridge, (natural water-soluble packaging for solid cosmetics), The Island Cosmetics (first natural sun makeup brand), Olica (natural oils and emulsions from local tropical flora) : three innovations of international scope are currently germinating on the island, testifying to the avant-garde positioning that Reunion Island is acquiring in cosmetology. First example : PolyBridge water-soluble packaging film, which has the potential to give solid cosmetics companies and the hospitality industry a head start when it comes to naturalness and environmental protection.
“Beauty hygiene goes solid”, announced Leader Réunion, in October, back from the Natexpo organic fair : “The solids boom is revolutionizing the hygiene and beauty segments. Everyone is won over by this new format which is good for the environment. » But to be completely in tune with new consumer demands, it remains for solid cosmetics — soaps, shampoos, perfumes… — to solve the packaging problem. PolyBridge water-soluble packaging film, 100% natural and biosourced, which dissolves in water in two or three seconds, must be assessed in the light of this problem. But the chemist at the origin of this innovation, Pascal Xanthopoulos, is established in Reunion. He created a local branch of the plant chemistry research organization Polybridge (approved by the tax credit) which he founded, thirteen years ago, in Strasbourg. Renowned chemist, Pascal Xanthopoulos was previously responsible for innovation at the Swiss company CIBA (since absorbed by the chemical giant BASF), famous in the world industry for the numerous inventions of which it was the source in very diverse fields. At the request of the paper industry, the PolyBridge team, has also devoted itself to the search for molecules of interest for the valorization of wood related products. (barks, knots…) . The completely natural water-soluble film is its most recent invention.
Technically possible local production
“The natural water-soluble film is produced from an extract of brown algae which constitutes its main component. It was designed at the request of players in the cosmetics market looking for an alternative to plastic in their packaging.. It is perfectly suited to solid cosmetics”, explique Pascal Xanthopoulos. PolyBridge is looking for industrial companies, in a city, but why not also in Reunion, interested in the exploitation of this patent on behalf of clients in the cosmetics sector. Technically, the water-soluble film could indeed be made anywhere. “The film is produced by a CAST process in which an aqueous solution of algae extracts is poured evenly onto a flat, smooth surface, then heated to remove water. This production technique does not require a large industrial installation. " Moreover, brown algae proliferates in the Indian Ocean, especially in Madagascar. The hypothesis of a water-soluble film production workshop in the region would therefore be possible as long as a sufficient market to make it profitable would be created.. This project is supported by the Reunion tropical bioeconomy competitiveness cluster Qualitropic. PolyBridge is a member of the Papam regional cluster (Perfume plants, aromatic and medicinal) combining the islands of the Indian Ocean supported by Qualitropic.
Packaging that is good for health and the environment
Polybridge's natural water-soluble film is one of the most innovative uses of brown algae chemistry, including, in France, Brittany is the land of choice. Although it does not have the elasticity of plastic film, its flexibility is sufficient to protect and allow the handling of a solid product such as soap or shampoo. Transparent, it can be colored and printed with vegetable inks. But water-soluble film is more than packaging, and this is also its revolutionary character : it is part of cosmetics. Dissolves on contact with water in seconds, it does not need to be removed from the product it covers and therefore does not generate any waste. Conversely, “It releases natural molecules with moisturizing or surfactant properties for the skin, providing more emulsification and foaming to the shampoo”, specifies Pascal Xanthopoulos. The water-soluble film is therefore not only safe for the sanitation network, but it is beneficial for health.
Naturalness and zero waste :a challenge also for the hotel industry
With solid cosmetics, the hotel industry is the second major outlet for this innovation. Just in the Reunion hotel industry, several tens of thousands of bars of soap and shampoo packaged in plastic are used each year. The tourist hotel industry is increasingly faced with a requirement for responsibility considered as a factor of quality and differentiation. A bar of soap or a solid shampoo whose packaging is part of the product and dissolves instantly in the shower, doing good for the skin : this is the proposal. The interest shown in the product by several small Reunion cosmetics companies confirms its relevance.. The invention is still very young. She has the future ahead of her and ticks all the boxes for a potentially local activity, sustainable and fair. “Here we are”, summarizes Pascal Xanthopoulos.
